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Capitol Reef National Park, Utah (View Photos):
The main highlight of Capitol Reef is the Waterpocket Fold, a massive ridge (or monocline) that formed millions of years ago when sedimentary rock layers were uplifted. Early pioneers thought this uplift resembled a huge reef. The monocline is 100 miles long and is one of the largest of its kind in North America. Erosion of the monocline's exposed edges has created a parallel string of ridges with tilted rock layers, twisting canyons, imposing cliffs, and gigantic domes (the park is named after one such dome). This diverse and astonishing park features some of the most alien and bizarre scenery in the world where ample opportunities for wilderness discovery await.
The middle part of the "Reef" can be easily explored along a paved road that follows the beautiful Fremont River, a riparian oasis where tall cottonwoods line the river banks. Cathedral Valley in the northern reaches of the park has large monoliths and other mysterious geological landmarks scattered over a vast, wide-open plain. Getting to this remote landscape requires a difficult drive over rough roads where a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle is essential.
Sulphur Creek, near the west entrance of the park, has carved out a deep but narrow meandering canyon known as the Goosenecks. Further east, one of Utah's most famous natural arches called Hickman Bridge is located just a short hike from the main park drive (route 24). Another interesting phenomenon is Grand Wash, an imposing, sheer-walled canyon where Butch Cassidy apparently once hid out.
Numerous dirt roads lead to remote and forbidding regions, like Upper Muley Twist Canyon where a brisk hike terminates at one of the most incredible panoramic viewpoints in the country, Strike Valley Overlook. From this vantage point atop the Waterpocket Fold, you can enjoy stunning views of the Henry Mountains and of course the Fold itself. Few other people are likely to be there to share the moment with you.
Recommended Day Hikes:
Chimney Rock Trail
Round Trip Length: 3.5 miles
Trailhead location: About 2 miles west of the visitor center on Utah 24
Level of Difficulty: Strenuous
Attractions: Great views of the bent and broken layers of the Waterpocket Fold; you will also get a high-elevation view
of the Goosenecks, a serpentine gorge carved out by Sulphur Creek
Rim Overlook/Hickman Bridge Trail
Round Trip Length: 6.0 miles
Trailhead location: The trail begins at the Hickman Bridge trailhead located 2 miles east of the visitor center on Utah 24
Level of Difficulty: Moderate
Attractions: This hike climbs to the top of the cliffs of the Waterpocket Fold and overlooks the Fremont River; tremendous
views of the Waterpocket Fold and dome-shaped sandstone formations; large round black boulders of basalt are present as
you head towards the cliff tops; a side-trail leads to close-up views of a huge natural bridge
Fremont River Trail
Round Trip Length: 2.5 miles
Trailhead location: At the Fruita campground located a little over a mile along the Scenic Drive heading south
Level of Difficulty: Strenuous
Attractions: The trail starts off easy as it follows along the Fremont River, but becomes progressively more difficult as it ascends the top of a cliff where you can enjoy panoramic views of the park, including nice views of Capitol Reef.
Goosenecks
Round Trip Length: 0.2 miles
Trailhead location: About 2 miles west of the visitor center on Utah 24
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Attractions: This easy trail leads to the edge of a twisting gorge referred to as the Goosenecks
Strike Valley Overlook
Round Trip Length: 1 mile (6 miles without a 4-wheel drive vehicle)
Trailhead location: From Utah Scenic Byway 12 at Boulder, turn onto the Burr Trail Byway. After about 20 miles of paved road, you will reach the unattended entrance to Capitol Reef National Park. At the park boundary, the road becomes gravel (fortunately, the road is still high-quality). Drive for about another 3-5 miles until you see the sign for Upper Muley Twist. At the sign, turn left onto a primitive road. 4WD vehicles can continue another 2.5 miles to the end of the road. If you don't have 4WD, park off to the side and walk along the primitive road for 2.5 miles until you see the trail sign for Strike Valley Overlook.
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Attractions: On this trail, you will ascend a sloping surface of Navajo slickrock, following the cairns for 1/2 mile to the top of the Waterpocket Fold monocline where magnificent views of this jagged uplift await. The views of Strike Valley and the Henry Mountains are also quite memorable.
Recommended Points of Interest:
Strike Valley Overlook; the 12.5 mile long Scenic Drive which follows along the face of Capitol Reef;
Grand Wash (the trailhead for this outsized Canyon is located directly off the main park road, route 24); Hickman Bridge (trailhead located off route 24);
Goosenecks Overlook (located off route 24); Chimney Rock; Cathedral Valley (reached only via a long, difficult 4WD road); Pleasant Creek (the creek can be reached from either the Notom-Bullfrog Road or from the end of the unpaved Pleasant Creek Road - the Pleasant Creek Road begins where the paved Scenic Drive ends)
Helpful travel tips and observations
The best time to visit the park is the very end of October when the crowds have thinned out and the fall colors of the cottonwoods along the Fremont River have hit their peak. Much of the park's best scenery is beyond the reach of everyone except those willing to endure grueling backpacking trips or rough 4-wheel drive back roads. Don't expect much in the way of amenities out here, although there is a nice Best Western hotel located just outside the west entrance of the park along route 24.
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Autumn foliage with the cliffs of the Waterpocket Fold in the background, (October 2010)
The Waterpocket Fold from the Rim Overlook Trail, Capitol Reef National Park, (February 2005)
Terraced cliffs of the Waterpocket Fold from the Hickman Bridge Trail, Capitol Reef National Park, (October 2010)
Cottonwoods along the Fremont River showing off their fall colors, (October 2010)
Chimney Rock from the Chimney Rock Trail, Capitol Reef National Park, (February 2005)
Spectacular fall colors along the main park road, Capitol Reef National Park, (October 2010)
Outstanding geological sights from the Hickman Bridge Trail, Capitol Reef National Park, (October 2010)
Hickman Bridge, Capitol Reef National Park, (February 2005)
